On Monday we spent Ugandan Independence Day in Bundibugyo town. It was a
bit of a mob scene. Many people had come from areas all around. Walking in
from villages . . .
We arrived mid afternoon, with a van full of friends from Nyahuka. We hoped
to stay a few hours, see some of the ceremonial dancing and part of the
football game. We had deliberately missed the speeches, which in this part
of the world, are most trying.
Upon arriving we soon discovered that it was going to be a bit of a
different day than we had imagined. We immediately saw some dancers and
wandered over to join the crowd viewing them, we also saw some people
wearing what looked like the skins and fur of colobus monkeys, playing a
large homemade xylophone, big enough for three people to play. Fascinating.
But as we watched, we realized that we were being watched. This was to
characterize our day there.
As we slowly moved from dance to dance, a pattern developed. As long as we
kept moving, we were okay. But as soon as we stopped a crowd would develop
around us, bigger than the crowd watching the actual dance. Then when the
crowd around us had gotten big enough that we really couldn’t see the dance
anymore, we’d wander on.
After just a short while, this grew old. We crossed the main road and
wandered down little streets and through the market area of Bundibugyo until
we reached the Hotel Vanilla. We had never been there, but it is advertised
on signs as being ” a tropical paradise in Bundibugyo.” Okay, not quite,
but still nice. We sat in their courtyard area and drank bottles of soda
and enjoyed being alone.
It would soon be time for football, so we ventured back out into the streets
to more cries of “mazungu, mazungu” and back up to where the main
festivities were being held. I was growing tired by this time. Because of
all the attention, we were holding Naomi and Quinn to prevent them being
touched and handled so much.
We rejoined some of the friends we had brought, including our workers and
some of their friends and their wives. I sat down on the ground next to
Aidah and Grace and put Naomi and Quinn in my lap. With all the men standing
right there, and sitting with Ugandans, I figured that societal pressure
would make the watching crowd leave. But as we sat down they came in record
numbers. I think there were hundreds of children gathered around us in an
enormous circle. They weren’t budging, they just kept coming closer and
closer and closer. Finally there we were sitting on the ground with
children pressed up against us on every side, we couldn’t see a thing, we
almost couldn’t breathe. One of the women with me had an umbrella for the
sun, and she kept beating at the children with it, but that wasn’t
discouraging them. It was an odd situation. We weren’t sure what to do
and really I don’t think anyone else was either. The sheer size of the
crowd was off putting. And I think because everyone was there simply for
the festival, there wasn’t anywhere for us to tell them to go. We were the
most interesting thing to see and they were here to see us!
I was laughing at the scenario, keeping a sense of humor and trying to find
some joy in the moment, when something fell onto my skirt. It was a chewed
up piece of sugar cane (sugar cane fibre is not edible, you just chew it and
suck up all the juice then spit it out). I was a little grossed out and
looked around to see who had thrown it, surprised at their rudeness. All
around children looked on, spellbound. What would the mazungu do?? I just
brushed my skirt off and didn’t think too much of it. In the next moment,
though, a small rock came flying past Quinn’s face and hit me. I stared
down at my lap and at the stone. Not even half a moment went by as I
processed this. There was a tension in the air. It was a defined moment, a
moment of decision making.
What was happening? We were being treated as mere objects, with no thought
to our humanity. Like dogs being teased through a fence, they were playing
with us.
The mama bear in me came out. I could feel in the air, that if I did not
act, a lot of children might do something small and stupid. But hundreds of
children doing a small stupid thing together could end up being very
dangerous. If each one picked up a rock and threw it, we would be hurt.
In the very next moment after that rock arced into my lap, I was up and
about 12 feet tall. Naomi and Quinn behind me still on the ground. I had
a voice that you who know me might not imagine. “Bah, na we!!” I yelled at
the children who had begun scrambling backward and away from me. “We, Bah!”
Oghendaha!!” I told them, “you, move back, you go back. That is NOT okay.
You may NOT.” you, and you, and you. Back!!” You get back from the
Bazungu children, right now!” Children were running and yelling, the crowd
was scattering. Our friends came toward us and now I was crying, telling
Daniel. “you must send them back. They cannot treat us this way. They are
your people you send them back.”
The dehumanization of it. I was furious for myself, furious for my
children. Just furious. And even in the midst of it I thought, what does
love look like right now, for these ones?? I just prayed that God would
allow me to hold love beside the necessary anger.
Our Ugandan friends took up sticks and formed a circle around us holding the
children back. I kept asking if we should just go, but none of us wanted to
be defeated that way. It would have felt like defeat. Later as heavy rains
came we found a place to drive our vehicle up close to the field. We sat
inside as children danced around the vehicle, calling to us. One little boy
seemed mentally disturbed. He kept motioning that He was going to slit my
throat. I just kept looking into his eyes and praying against whatever was
there. He could not hold my gaze.
Later, as the rains had stopped, I went outside the van and spoke the to the
children a little. I showed them a picture book, I felt the mood change. I
prayed that they would sense my love, and that they would know that because
of Jesus we are not afraid.
Later we learned that the atmosphere of the crowd was probably due to some
passionate speeches about freedom from oppression, which involved a lot of
discussion about whites oppressors. Thought we are not seen as oppressors,
their may have still been a bit of transference. Also, there were a lot of
people in Bundibugyo town that day who rarely, if ever see whites.
We left shortly before the football game ended, trying to get home before
dark. We had 24 people filling our ten passenger van for the ride home. It
was a harrowing drive, in wet and slippery conditions, in the dimness of
twilight, with so many traveling on the road.
We arrived home to find that a big storm had blown in a great deal of water,
now standing on our floors. After pulling together some fruit and g-nuts
for a dinner of sorts for the children, I got them into bed then began
sweeping out water. A very heavy piece of furniture fell on my foot,
causing enough pain to make me wonder if it was broken. No, just very, very
bruised, still hurting almost a week later.
Wow. When the day here is bad, it’s bad. When it’s good, it’s difficult.